Coast to Coast 2011: Day Three

Tuesday 14th June – Blakey Ridge to Osmotherley

Today I shall mostly be silently mouthing the words to “Walk Away” by Franz Ferdinand.

Wow! What a cracking day its been – some of the best weather I’ve walked in for a long time and some stunning views from the high points today – I could see Ingleborough and Whernside – and they’re 50 miles away! I had to have them pointed out – by a hill finder on a memorial, but I could still see them.

I’m going to jump to the end of today initially – I’m in the Queen Catherine Hotel in Osmotherley and I’m absolutely knackered – I’ve done 20 miles today and it was hot, right from the outset – so the 3000 feet of ascent that went with the 20 miles have rather taken it out of me. It doesn’t all come in one or two lumps either – there were 5 distinct climbs today and 6 descents and by the end I was almost crawling up the incline. However, as much as it contributed to my knackeredness, the weather made the day – it was superb – it was a clear blue, cloudless sky all day and there was next to no wind, for which I was most grateful.

I didn’t sleep great again, despite being pretty knackered – I awoke at 03:40 and again at 05:00 and from then on I was pretty much waiting for the alarm to go off. So i was downstairs at 07:15 trying to get some breakfast. There were a couple of ladies around, doing the laundry and they helped me sort out some Corn Flakes and juice and one of them kindly made me a pot of tea too, so I at least had something inside me when I set out at 08:00 on the dot.

I’d set my sights on doing the first 5 miles along the Rosedale railway in about an hour and 40 mins – 3 miles an hour – its all flat, so that shouldn’t be too hard – that would make a nice dent in the 19.6 mile total for the day. As it was I did it in an hour and 30. I met loads of C2Cers on the way – dozens of them – even that early in the morning. By the time I reached Bloworth Crossing at 09:30 I must have seen 15-20 of them.

By the time I reached Clay Bank Top I’d lost count of the number of “Hello’s” and “Good Morning’s” I’d got through. I was keeping an eye out for a forum member called Doug, who said he’d be walking this section today – I kept waiting for the greeting – making eye contact with everyone, looking expectant – but nothing. He was staying in Great Broughton, so once I got beyond Clay Bank I gave up – I assumed we’d passed each other and he’d just not recognised me.

The Rosedale railway was like a motorway for baby Grouse and their parents – I saw thousands of them – scampering across the path and disappearing into the heather on either side – the babies trying to fly to safety, but for the most part they are still too young, but their attempts are quite comical. Come the Glorious 12th the grouse butts either side of the track are going to be busy with shooters and they’ll have plenty to aim at if the current batch of young are anything to go by.

As well as grouse, the path was covered in tiny centipedes – millions of them – I gave up trying to avoid stepping on them, I must have looked like a right daft sod dodging around the path, the Minister of Silly Walks – long stride, short stride, dodge to the left, long stride……

The number of guide stones and boundary stones is something to remark on as well – the North Yorks moors are littered with them and many of them date back several hundred years. An American couple stopped me and asked what the “little monuments” were for and I explained. Its hard to relate to them when the path is as clear and obvious as it is today – but a couple of hundred years ago they were vital to the safe passage of people across the moor.

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Baby grouse trying to hide

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Rosedale railway – a bit boring

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Centipede

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Another bunch of Westers heading towards me

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Boundary and Guide stones galore

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I walked over all of them

On the way up to the Wain Stones I met a guy and exchanged greetings – he was obviously a retired naval captain – used to shouting orders across a wind swept, heaving deck, making sure his hands heard him – because his cheerful “Good Morning” nearly knocked me over – I actually thought he must be shouting to someone behind me, further up the hill, but a quick look round confirmed it was me he was shouting at 🙂

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The Wain Stones

Once beyond Clay Bank my progress slowed considerably – the heat was taking its toll and the multiple steep climbs and descents were beginning to hurt. I’d hoped to reach Lord Stones cafe by about 12:30 – spend an hour there enjoying the tea and cakes and then push on to Osmotherley. I shuffled into the car park about 13:00 – and was greeted with an “are you Stuart?” from a guy in a group of four taking it easy on the grass beside the path. I’d found Doug. He apologised for getting his dates wrong by a day – he wasn’t due into Great Broughton until tonight. We chatted for a while, its always great to meet people from the forum and we swapped notes on the path. They’d had a mare the day before, with lots of rain along the stretch from Danby Wiske.

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The Cleveland Way – a real boot killer apparently

I made my apologies, as I was gasping for a brew and stepped into the cool shade of the cafe. I made a bit of a pig of myself – I had a chocolate flapjack, a chocolate covered caramel biscuit, a pot of tea, a can of Diet Coke and a bottle of water to add to my Platypus. I spent an excellent 30 minutes or so resting my feet and recharging the tanks, before I set off into the heat of the day again.

There’s only 7 miles or so from Lord Stones to Osmotherley – but they were hard work – the climb up to Carlton Moor seemed interminable and the path along the top of it seemed to stretch off into infinity. I passed more C2Cers – not sure where they must be staying, but it was along way to Great Broughton and already 14:30 or so – I guess the total for the day – albeit a long day, probably counting people across a couple of days – was about 60. A lot more than yesterday.

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Bizarre sight on the path over Carlton Bank – millions of meal worms (?)

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More Westers on the path over Carlton Bank

I dragged myself into Osmotherley – along the road beside Cod Beck reservoir – which was a little longer than my planned route, but did avoid 300 feet of ascent that I could really do without. The village was a welcome sight – I was pretty much at the limit of my endurance. The whole of my route today, was along the Lyke Wake Walk, but there’s 20 miles of that walk before the Lion Inn, so anyone doing all the 40 miles into Os has made one hell of a journey and I take my hat off to all of them – I doubt I could do it – I think it will be a long time before I try it again – and I’ll need to be much fitter than I am at the moment.

The Queen Catherine is great – I have a small single with an en-suite shower, they have WiFi and they are right next door to a chippy (closed tonight unfortunately) and across the road is an outdoors shop and a little village store with all the essentials. Why anyone chooses to stop in Ingleby is beyond me, when you have this little oasis just over the hill.

As an easter it does mean I have an extra mile or so to do tomorrow into Richmond, and my choice of B&B in that town wasn’t great – “West End” is exactly as it suggests – on the far side of the town for me – so 26 miles tomorrow – mostly flat though – 1400 feet of ascent, even split between the start and end – eek!

I’m showered and fed now – feeling much better – feet are still throbbing though. The Queen is pretty quiet, but they have an Eighties hits CD playing on a loop – it’s brilliant – it’s on it’s third loop and I could happily sit here all night and listen to Kim Wilde, Depeche Mode, Tears for Fears and a load of others.

Enough for tonight. Thanks for all the comments so far – its great to hear from you and as I have WiFi I’ve even been able to reply to them 🙂

lonewalker

Fell-walker, trig-pointer, peak-bagger, Wainwright-er & Pennine Way author, with a passion for long paths, malt whisky, fast cars & Man City

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7 Responses

  1. Doug says:

    Hi Stuart. It was good to see you..eventually :-). I realised i had our crossing point out by one day that morning. We saw the mealworms, though resisted the urge to see if they tasted like chicken, and ate the packed lunch sarnies of Brie and grape instead.
    We arrived home on Friday in the rain, it would seem as though they weather has been nicer up there than at home in the not so sunny south. Thanks to my inability to remember to carry the sun screen, everyone now thinks i have been on holiday in sunnier climes.
    We spent our last night in the Manning Tree @ RHB, and it would seem as though we had the same room. Nice place.
    I’m now going to read the rest of your diary.
    God speed

  2. Dodge says:

    Recognised a bit of that scenery from LWW support drive 2009. Looking good so far, keep up the good pace and spirits. Your misidentification of some of the wildlife on the walk, is beginning to make me doubt all references to life to which you refer. Top tip – don’t eat anything that you find en-route, say berries, fungi, meal worms etc, prob best hey?
    You on the foldy keyboard? I’ve seen some sexy Bluetooth iPhone keyboards, nice and slim…
    Onward…

  3. RichardJ says:

    This is good reading Stuart. Did the Lyke Wake E->W Sept last year (it’s the climb, in the Coalmire Plantation just before Scarth Nick that was the sting in the tale). But like you, walking against the C2C flow as it were, the number of people doing it becomes really evident. I counted about 15 on Cringle Moor alone.

  4. Stuart, its great to read about your walk. Today from Clay Bank Top to Osmotherly is one of my favorite sections of the C2C. It was fun to try tracing your route from RHB to Grosmont and I also love the Rosedale railway bed. You are doing great – keep your head into the wind and don’t let it knock you down. Say hello to Margaret at Brookfield for me.

  5. Tim says:

    Hi Stuart. Sounds like Day 3 was glorious. No doubt about it, you are headed in the right direction given the large number who are not. Enjoying the blog, as always. By the way, my wife (the biologist in the family) has good news and bad news for you. First, the centipede is a millipede (cute, veggie and importantly with “two pairs of legs per segment not one”). The bad news is the meal worms look a bit like fly larvae (i.e., maggots – neither cute nor veggie). You’ve got a long day tomorrow even if relatively flat. Hope you slept well. Safe travels!

  6. Your mother says:

    This is making more interesting bedtime reading than the Daily Mail and Daily Telegraph! I’ve been following you for the last couple of days and feel quite sorry for your knees. Today’s weather looks superb, I hope you have a few more like it. Some of the b and bs sound a bit iffy so I can imagine how good you must feel when you get a good one. The photographs are really good – doesn’t that fantastic blue sky make a difference?

    You’ll be pleased to know that Tracie’s coming tomorrow to do the grass – I’ll bet that’s been worrying you every step of the way, hasn’t it??!! She should have come today and I was very tempted to have a go, but then I remembered my promise to you and went into Knutsford instead.

    Must go now – got to play Scrabble for while! Love from me.

  7. Roger says:

    Stuart
    I hope you are having a few pints tonight to replace what you have lost today on the sun, really enjoyed your diary today reminded me of walking this stretch and the great views. Looking forward to tomorrow.
    Roger.

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