Coast to Coast 2011: Day Five

Thursday 16th June – Richmond to Reeth

Today I shall mostly be doing my infamous Karaoke version of “Walk On The Wild Side” by Lou Reed.

I had the best nights sleep of the walk so far. In fact I more a curtly just died at about 9pm and awoke again at about 5am before dropping off again until the alarm at 7:15.

A lot of that was to do with the lack if sleep in Os of course, but also the comfy pillows and the quality quilt made all the difference. I just had enough time for a quick shower and then down to a lovely breakfast. I shared the room with a regular guest, something akin to an old time travelling salesman I guess, or more likely someone not on expenses and having to spend two or three days a week in a B&B. You could do an awful lot worse than the West End in Richmond, it was excellent.

I took my time over breakfast and then lounged around my room for a while too. I eventually set out about 9am, down into the town to see if I could find an outdoor shop to replace my Merino baselayer. The one I’m using is full of holes and is becoming scratchy – I thought it would last me the whole walk, but I’m beginning to regret not buying a new one before I set out. The town was sort of on my path anyway, just a short diversion – but the 2 shops I tried were no help. I’ll have to live with what I’ve got.


I climbed the ling road, north out of the town, the hill getting steeper the further I went. My feet were still feeling a little battered from yesterday and the road wasn’t helping much this morning. I felt quite good though, considering, I didn’t really need to stop along the climb and I was soon at the beacon and trig point on Beacon Hill, the reason for my road diversion.

The beacon is impressive – a 15 feet high stepped stone column with a metal brazier on the top. It looks like it would hold a proper blazing beacon and I would be surprised if it isn’t lit on occasion. I’d love to see it.


Trig point bagged I dropped down to the road and then along to another path that took me to Willance Leap. This is an old monument to a chap who was a big Star Wars fan. In 1606 his horse jumped (with him in the saddle) off the edge of the cliff at this point. It’s a fair way down and miraculously the chap survived, he came round to find his horse dead and his own leg broken. He was worried gangrene would set in before he could be rescued – so in order to keep his leg warm he cut his horses stomach open and thrust his broken leg inside. He lay there for sometime until he was missed and rescued. His leg survived though. There are three monuments on the cliff top. One raised by the man himself to thank God for sparing him, one to mark the 300th anniversary in 1906 and a fourth to mark the 400th anniversary. Bizarre but true.


As I stood admiring the drop and being glad I wasn’t on a skittery horse, it started to rain. I deployed the poncho and followed the path along the face of the cliff. It was blowing a small hurricane at this point and the poncho isn’t great in wind, it tends to bunch up around the gentlemans area and let’s the knees of your trousers get wet. It’s easy to deploy though and works fairly well. I dropped down the path to join the usual C2C route, at the foot of Applegarth Scar. I started to meet lots of westers from this point, many of whom commented that the wind was not really in my favour. No shit Sherlocks! My poncho was flapping like a sail – all I needed was wheels and I could have tacked all the way to Reeth.


Just outside Marske the rain stopped and I quickly packed away the poncho. I made a route change decision here and opted out of the high route up over Skelton Moor and Fremington Edge and decided to stick to the usual route. It’s still not flat, but it’s easier and the wind was putting me off the higher route.


A random landy photo


The sky was beautifully blue now with high white clouds and other than the wind it was a glorious day. I took it really easy along the path, probably only averaging a little over 2 mph – but yesterday’s exertions were still hurting and although my legs felt fine, my feet were sore.
With no maps covering this route I relied mostly on memory from my previous two walks and also on my iPhone. This isn’t the best device for creating a new route on, but I dropped a few waypoints at crucial path turns and aimed between them. I found I knew the route pretty well though and I never felt lost at all.

The iPhone has now replaced my PDA for on the go route finding and I will probably do a more detailed write-up at some point, but it’s very easy to use, quick to get a GPS lock and the battery has so far been fine.


On the path at the top of the Nun’s Steps I spotted a TV aerial, probably for the farm at the bottom of the valley. My mischievous side wanted to jiggle it round to a different direction, just for the hell of it. I always get this urge when I see one of these things and it surprises me when I see them so close to a footpath – if I get the urge and supress it, there must be plenty of others without my self-control? I bet the farmer is always having to slog up the hill to adjust the damn thing back onto signal.

I’m the same with bowling greens and cricket pitches! I want to make a midnight visit with a bag of moles and let them loose to run and play 🙂 I’ve never done it – but perhaps one day – same for the aerials – perhaps one day.


I almost stepped on a rabbit in the long grass in one field. It just lay there, unmoving, but obviously alive. I nudged it with my toe to see if it would move, but it seemed ill. It’s eyes were a right mess and the next dog along would not be so kind as I. I don’t know what the symptoms of myxamatosis are but maybe Tim’s missus does 🙂 ?


In the next field I spotted this caravan – a holiday let I’m guessing – but what a place! I saw the occupants chasing the cows away from their gate – obviously fed up of the attention and probably the smell too!

I arrived in Reeth at about 2pm and took a flyer on the Buck Hotel letting me into my room – which they did. It feels great to have an afternoon to relax and kick back and get the blog up to date. They even have WiFi (albeit in one particular spot on the landing between floors 2 and 3) so I should be able to get completely up to date.


I’m in the bar now, showered and shaved and feeling a bit better than I did 24 hours ago.

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8 thoughts on “Coast to Coast 2011: Day Five”

  1. Dodge – Trip Advisor is a good idea – especially for a man like me who does hold a grudge! I only had the .44 magnum with me, not the little .22 I use on the “black bag” jobs – and the magnum makes a helluva noise, so thought I’d best not use it.

    Mourne Walker – stride well and truly broken! 😉 I’m glad to hear someone else listens out for walking related songs on the radio 🙂

  2. Rabbit had mixi, when I walk between keld and richmond there where lots of them like this, patch my jack russel went mad chasing them and killing a few. Your deer was a roe deer looked like a doe. Keep going no more thinking about giving up.

  3. Mourne walker

    Stuart – can’t believe I got your name wrong in my previous comment! Sincere apologies. Hope it doesn’t put you off your stride.

  4. Mourne walker

    Hi Greg

    When I got into the car this morning and switched on the radio I was treated to Gabrielle singing ‘Walk on By’ which reminded me I had two days of your diary to catch up on – happy days – a good start to the weekend. It is a real treat to have you ‘Back on the Road Again’ – Willie Nelson. Keep up the good work.

  5. Dave (davesjournals)

    Nice to hear you say something nice about Reeth for a change even if it is only about a chance to relax. Keep it up I’m so envious, can’t wait til August.

  6. Wow, quite an eventful couple of days hey? It’ll make the trip more memorable I guess.
    Good to hear spirits are back up where they should be.
    Don’t you remember a few years back, someone poured weedkiller on the bowling green at the Conservative Club in Knutsford? It made the national press, I saw it in the IRISH papers! A huge cock & balls, slowly developed on the beautiful green, what a laugh!!!
    Be sure to use Trip Advisor to get your revenge on the guy with the sick sense of humour!
    Defo a mixi bunny, probably standing on it would have helped it really! A .22 round certainly ends the suffering!
    Now, no more talk of quitting, get on and enjoy yourself, hopenthe weathers with you – Friday’s gonna be horrible!!

  7. You could try Eden Outdoors in Kirkby Stephen on the High Street. Not sure if their sell Merino baselayers, but worth a try.

    1. Martin, thanks, hadn’t realised KS had an outdoor shop. I thought Richmond was my last chance. I’ll give them a try.

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