Pennine Way (North to South) 2024 – Day 0

11th May 2024: Home to Kirk Yetholm

In what would have been a break from recent tradition, there wasn’t going to be a ‘Pennine Way Day 0’ post this year, for the reasons I’m about to explain. But then I decided it was probably unfair to the folk who just want to read about the Pennine Way, to include all the immediate pre-walk logistics in the ‘Day 1’ post. So this is going to be a ‘Day 0’ post, but it’s more of a planning post, and I’ll probably just summarise the actual journey in a paragraph at the start of tomorrow’s post.

Usually I have to spend a day getting to the end of the walk, dropping off my car, and then working my way back to the start using various public transport links. When it came to planning the same journey for this south-bound Pennine Way, however, I was stumped. The paucity of bus services both from Kirk Yetholm (where I start) and into Bowes (where I end this first section) were one problem, but there was also the issue of where to park the car in Bowes. I used all my usual methods and the only way I could safely achieve my goal, was to leave it in the car park of the only accommodation in the village, the Ancient Unicorn. This would mean staying there of course, either at the start of the walk, or the end. Both were completely impractical however, there was no way I could get to Kirk Yetholm in time if I stayed in Bowes before the walk, and if I stayed there at the end, it would have meant an extra night away from home, and another day’s annual leave, neither of which I could really afford.

As such, I’ve had to resort to begging a lift – which I’ve not done since the Cross Borders Drover Road in 2021. My brother is usually happy to provide this service however, and we always have a good laugh on road trips – so I asked and he agreed. There were only a couple of issues with this approach, that niggled in the back of my mind. The first is that I really need to be on the trail no later than 9.30am – I’m being collected at the end of the first day’s walking at 5pm, and we all know how well I walk to a deadline! That means being out of the door no later than 5am ideally – and I’ll probably need at least 30-40 minutes to get myself straight before Roger arrives, so I need to be up about 4ish – that’s going to make for a very long day, on top of what is already going to be one of the toughest days of the walk, and certainly the ‘biggest’ hill walk I’ve done for many months.

The second issue is that I found it really difficult to put my head in the right place, the last time Roger dropped me at the start of a walk. On recent trips I’ve stepped out of the door, having said my goodbyes, and then I have a long drive and a series of public transport journeys with my own thoughts, mentally preparing myself for the long walk and the time away from loved-ones that it entails. The journey feels like a period of decompression; a long, deep breath if you like, between the normality of family life and the solitude of the long distance walk I’m about to undertake. The thing is, I love both, but because they are so different, they require completely different mindsets. At least that how it feels to me. The journey provides the time to transition my mindset from home to walk.

The last time Roger dropped me off, at the start of the Cross Borders Drove Road, I really struggled for the first couple of hours, with an overwhelming feeling of melancholy and homesickness, which I subsequently put down to the abrupt severing of the link between home and walk. I’d literally been having a happy chat with my brother one minute, and the next I was dropped in the middle of nowhere and he drove off and left me. I’m fervently hoping that I’m over-thinking this (as I’m wont to do) and I’ll step out of Roger’s car, wave him off and feel absolutely fine. Only time will tell.

The third issue with this approach is that I’m going to miss the ‘experience’ of the journey to the start line. Getting to the start of a long walk is often challenging and if you’re using a series of public transport links, it can be stressful, but there’s always a certain… not adventure as such, but definitely an experience, associated with the journey – maybe it’s just a break from the norm – and I’m going to miss that. I read with some envy of my friend Matt’s planned journey to the start of his TGO Challenge this year. He’s using a coach and a train to get most of the way, then he’s island hopping on ferries to complete the last couple of stages. There’s definitely an element of ‘adventure’ and a certain ‘panache’ associated with this, and a lift up the M6 doesn’t really compare!

I have added a small complication into the outward journey though – just to spice it up a bit. I’m staying in Forest View Walkers’ Inn, on the first night – mainly because I’m a wimp. When I did the Pennine Way in 2010, I did the section from Byrness to Kirk Yetholm in one go. It’s about 25 miles and it involves about 5,000 feet of ascent when you do it in that direction, but I was younger and a bit fitter back then and I enjoyed the thought of the challenge, and indeed the challenge itself. This time round, however, it never crossed my mind to gut it out in one go. The thought of doing that sort of mileage and height gain on the first day was daunting (to say the least) and I knew that Forest View offered a collection and drop-off service that would break the day down into two, much more manageable, sections.

Then I had a thought a few weeks ago, it’s only a short diversion on the way up, to swing past them and drop off some of the gear I don’t need on the walk. I don’t need my overnight clothes, my small bag of chargers and cables and such like, and my wash kit, so I rang them and agreed I could drop these off on the way to Kirk Yetholm. This also means I can add lunch supplies for Days 2 and 3, which I would have had to carry from the start as there’s no shop in Byrness. The short diversion will save me carrying about 2kg of weight – of which I’m sure I will be immensely grateful as I slog my way up the steep climb to The Cheviot. There’s just short of 3,500 feet of ascent in the first 8 miles of the walk, plus another 300 feet if I decide I have the time (and legs) to divert to the summit. Any weight advantage I can gain will be most welcome!

I’ve had a quick look at the weather forecast for the next couple of days. I’ve actually been dreading doing this – we’ve had such dreadful weather so far this year – but I thought with only 24 hours to go, it’s probably going to be reasonably close. Looks like I have three pretty good days ahead, but then unsettled with showers for the rest of the week. Anything beyond 24 hours is pretty much a guess in my opinion (and experience), so I’m not too worried. The only slight concern is the forecast of lightning at about the time I’ll be climbing up to the highest point in Northumberland!

I’ll have an early night tonight, my bag is (mostly) packed and my supply parcel is wrapped and ready. Nothing else left to do except walk the walk!

Featured image: Me, leaning on the trig point on Windy Gyle, from my Pennine Way in 2014